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January 18, 2008

Chamonix Ski Resort Review – European Backcountry Skiing Mecca

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In 1997 I called through a number of hostels in Chamonix ski resort and asked if they had any room for me. I was planning my very first skibum trip to Chamonix, to the European skiing and mountaineering Mecca. In fact, this was going to be my first time in the Alps, because so far I had been skiing only in northern Finland. I was excited, enthusiastic and highly motivated to start my big journey to famous Chamonix.

I got a room in a nice little hostel, hosted by an American couple. I arrived in Chamonix in late January 1997. It was already night when I arrived, so I did not see much peaks around the valley. In the morning the sky was clear as I opened the window. I was shocked. I had never seen such high peaks and massive mountains so close. In that moment I knew it. I had arrived to the right place. I felt being at home.

I knew nobody in Chamonix and I arrived there alone. I understood I need to get together with other skiers in order to find my way to the backcountries, because that was the reason number one why I was there. I started skiing with an Englishman staying in the same hostel. We went skiing in Argentiere which is few kilometers to North from Chamonix village. I got my first touch to big mountains on the very first day. How did I feel? It was staggering. I was more than happy. It had been my dream for years and on that day I was living my dream.

Chamonix is ski area is the European backcountry skiing mecca

I continued networking down in the Chamonix valley. I went to bars and searched for other Finns. Soon I found myself skiing with other skibums who took me to awesome places in the mountains. I was grateful. We went skiing fresh powder in large powder fields and we survived very steep and icy couloirs. We went skiing deep powder in “magic” forests and we had competition like “the last one down in the valley is gay!” We spent our evenings in a bar watching big mountain skiing on screen and drinking beer. It was exactly what I was looking for. I was happy to be in Chamonix. During my first season I spent two months in Chamonix and during later seasons I spent 2-3 months in there.

Chamonix ski resort in review, what’s good and what’s not?

Chamonix is a great place to ski if you are experienced and you are looking for backcountry skiing experiences. There are pretty nice pistes in Chamonix as well, but for on-piste skiing Chamonix is not the best one. For those interested in climbing and mountaineering Chamonix is a must to visit. European climbing and mountaineering culture has developed mostly in Chamonix area because of Mont Blanc. If you are interested in feeling the mountaineering culture and understanding more about it, Chamonix is again worth to visit. Mont Blanc massive provides spectacular views and awesome objects for photographing.

Diverse nature of Chamonix gives very many experiences all year round. Shortly said, you should go to Chamonix if you are interested in backcountry skiing, mountaineering, photographing, nature, mountain biking and trekking.

Ok, when should you go elsewhere? I would say that other ski resorts provide you better experiences if you are looking for on-piste skiing, family skiing and nightlife. I have to mention it right away that nightlife in Chamonix is almost dead compared to St. Anton, Les 3 Vallée and other famous ski resorts. So, what is there in Chamonix? Let’s have a detailed look.

Chamonix ski area provides some spectacular views, like this one from L'Aiguille du Midi

Chamonix is located directly under the highest peak in Western Europe, Mont Blanc (4807 m.), and it is surrounded by very steep and high peaks. Mountains around Chamonix valley provide an endless amount of routes to ski and climb. There are approximately 50 lifts in Chamonix and the ski area are a little bit scattered. There are busses circulating between the ski areas, and it seems to be the best and easiest way to move between ski areas. Busses are free for those who have a ski pass.

Chamonix ski areas provide something for everyone

One of the Chamonix ski areas, Les Grands Montets, has sometimes been called as the best unique ski area in the world. While Les Grand Montets provides great skiing for experienced, less experienced and beginners can find good slopes in Le Tour ski area. Beginners, who have never been skiing before, should start in Planards ski area in the middle of the valley. Pretty good off-piste skiing and very nice forests can be found in Le Brevent and Flegere ski areas. Those area located in southern mountain faces are very popular and easy to access from Chamonix village.

Chamonix ski area provides probably the best skiing in Europe

For very experienced skiers, mountain climbers and backcountry skiers a lift from the village gives a ride up to L’Aiguille du Midi (3842 m.), one of the most staggering places to ski. All the slopes coming down from this peak are glaciers and sometimes risky (due to crevasses), so it is reasonable to hire a local guide to help skiing in from this high peak. If you feel skiing from L’Aiguille du Midi is too big challenge, you can always go there the awesome mountain view and shoot photographs. You can always take a lift back to valley.

Shopping in Chamonix ski resort

Chamonix village, with 10.000 inhabitants, provides a number of shops and restaurants where you can spend your evenings. You can get information of the interesting history of Chamonix from skiing and alpine museum. Additionally Chamonix provides a swimming hall, indoor climbing and few atmospheric after ski bars. Even though after ski is quiet, but that is just a positive thing because you need to be fresh and ready to go every morning. Powder fields are destroyed in one hour after the ski lifts have been opened, so there is no time to sleep late in Chamonix.

Chamonix facts

  • 10.000 inhabitants
  • 2.5 million tourists yearly
  • 49 ski lifts
  • 160 kilometers of pistes, 10 black pistes, 24 red pistes and 40 green and blue pistes
  • No freestyle park, no half-pipes
  • Village altitude 1042 meters, highest ski list station (L’Aiguille du Midi) 3842 meters
  • Ski lifts open from 8:45 am to 4:45 pm
  • Ski lift prices: See the latest prices in Chamonix website
  • Ski rent 6 days 60-130 euros
  • Cross-country skiing routes 95 kilometers
  • Restaurants about 200 and nightclubs 5
  • Credit cards accepted Visa, American Express, Euro/Mastercard
  • Websites: www.chamonix.com, www.chamonet.com, www.chamonix.net

Images source.

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About the Author

Marko Pyhajarvi
I am an old-school alpine skier, snowboarder and telemarker, and I love writing. Therefore I founded Homeboy. I (too) enjoy powder, mountaineering and backcountry skiing as well as photographing. Nowadays, as an old fart, I mostly ski with my kids and focus on financing their hobbies.




 
 

 
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71 Comments


 
 

  1. franck

    great post man !
    As I’m planning to visit Chamonix , you can bet it was a useful one ;)
    Maybe you know where I could find a rental in chamonix ? I was thinking about renting a cozy chalet or smething like that , we are a pretty big family ;)
    thx for your help
    cheers


  2. franck, very nice to hear that. Thanks, man!

    Is this your first time in Chamonix? It’s a great place, enjoy!

    I have always lived in budget hostels and I know few very good ones. If you are a big family, I think those are not good for you. I would suggest you to register to Snowheads.Com and leave a message there. There are many of those who run hotels and chalets in Chamonix and I’m sure you’ll find a good one. I know David Murdoch from Snowheads.Com. He runs a chalet in Chamonix (http://www.ski-chx.com/). Check that website and contact David if you find this chalet good for you.

    Hey, have a great trip to Chamonix!


  3. steve

    hello franck
    you can also have a look here
    http://chaletlescimes.com/chaletlescimes/racine/
    it’s a luxury and cozy chalet with great comfort and an amazing view, in chamonix
    it depends on what you look for
    hope it helped


  4. steve, thanks for the link! That chalet looks very good. I’m sure my wife would like it very much :)

    It is one of those located underneath Le Brevent ski lift, right?


  5. finn

    i was wondering r there some sites on the net where u can ging a cheap place to stay for the season? and how much do they about take for 2-3months?


  6. Great review and really useful links, Thanks.
    Just got back from Cham myself. Been staying with Ski Breezy and riding telemarks. The snow is fantastic! If you wanna sneek at what’s been happening and what the snow conditions are like have a look here http://skibreezy.com/c_pub/en/news_updates.php
    Have a safe trip!!


  7. ohh really good site…….it really help everyone who want to know about new things


  8. “There are pretty nice pistes in Chamonix as well, but for on-piste skiing Chamonix is not the best one. For those interested in climbing and mountaineering Chamonix is a must to visit.” I completely agree. Chamonix is a very harsh landscape so not an ideal place to go for beginners.


 
 



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